Thursday, November 24, 2011

A Thanksgiving Story


How to Make Mom's Apple Pie in Saudi Arabia


Around this time of year, one thinks about traditions, family and good food. When you cannot be at home, you try and bring a little home to wherever you are by either practicing a home tradition or making food you grew up with. As simple as this task may sound, or as easy as the recipe or tradition might seem, one must take into consideration the new environment. Here is a story of one such instance in Saudi Arabia.

Now, when you begin to cook an apple pie, the first step would be to figure out the ingredients you would need to make the recipe. Then you proceed to the store. Now, if you are a woman in Saudi, this is a daunting task in and of itself. Either you can go the grocery store across the street and hope they have all the ingredients. However, experience has taught you that the apples across the street resemble the apples that the grocery store down the street, out the compound, across the highway, and past the dumpster was ready to throw out. The fresh one’s from that grocery store are only a week to 2 weeks old! So, you wonder, do I venture out of the compound and down the street? Well you could, but you also know that you have one very special item you need that you have never seen at that grocery store, or any store for that matter; Pillsbury pie crust. If you want any hope of that, you know you will have to go to the hyper grocery store which requires a taxi. City or compound taxi? Well city are cheaper and easier to haggle with so you go with city. After some haggling, you jump inside and head to the hyper grocery store.

You arrive and, since it is right beside a mall, you do a little shopping. After all, how often do you see a mall in Saudi? Suddenly, while shopping, you see they are going to be closing for prayer. You leave the store and run, yes run, into the grocery store just as they are pulling down the gate. Better to be locked inside somewhere that allows you to shop then to be walking around a mall window shopping for an hour being stared at by men. Once inside, you take out your phone to get the recipe for the pie. Of course, you have no internet because the system is “busy.” So you have to call home to the states to get the recipe. That is when you are reminded that you need nutmeg, an ingredient that is illegal to buy or sell in Saudi. You gather the rest of the ingredients and continue to search for beloved pie crust. High and low you such, but to no avail. You knew you would never find it, but you still hoped. Now you will have to resort to making it the old fashion way… from scratch.

After putting your stuff in and out of 2 taxi’s, you finally find out that said they would take you for the price you asked for. On the way home, you realize the driver of the giant Ford boat you are in does not know where you live. Of course he speaks no English which only makes the situation all the more helpful. After using the 5 Arabic words you know, 3 of which are left, right, and straight, you arrive home. You do not try and start baking that night because, in Saudi, you can only do one really productive thing a day and that shopping trip took almost 3 hours.

The next day, you prepare to make your pie. First you have to make the crust. You don’t have a mixing bowl, of course, so you use a serving bowl with low sides because that is much better to use, especially with flour. You find an internet recipe that call for flour and shorting and you are to cut it up with knifes. This goes against everything you know about cooking, but you go with it for fun. Your neighbor, a much more experienced cook comes to help you as well. She leaves you to your work and you continue to cut up your flour and shorting. Suddenly, a thought comes to you, a blender would be much more efficient to use to mix the dough. You pour the mixture into the one setting blender and turn it on but nothing happens as the flour and shorting sit there laughing at you as if to say, “nope, you have to do this the hard way.” So you pour the mixture back into the bowl and continue cutting. The task seems pointless, so you form them into two balls that look ok to you and put them in the fridge. Now to cut up apples.

Sadly pampered chef does not have a home base in Saudi and no one you know, including yourself, possesses an apple peeler, corer, slicer. So, by hand again you go about peeling the apples, coring them, and slicing them into another low shallow bowl like the one you put the flour in. Finally, you finish cutting up all the apples as they pour out the top of the bowl. Wait, a great idea! Why not pour them into a cooking pot to mix with the sugar mixture! Brilliant! You pour the apples into a giant pot and proceed to make the sugar mixture. Now, since the metric system is the only source of measurement in the country, you have the estimate all measurements due to a lack of cups, teaspoons, and tablespoons. So, a little of this and a little of that. Luckily, your neighbor smuggled in some nutmeg from Greece so you have some of that to use. You pour the mixture over the apples and mix them up. Now back to the crust.

You take it out the fridge and begin to roll it and suddenly you have a pile of crumbs all the over the table. You call the neighbor again who proceeds to enlighten you about how you have to keep cutting the dough and need more shortening. So apparently rushing is not the name of the game. You cut and cut and cut and, finally you are able to make two balls of dough again. You stick them BACK into the freezer to let them… do whatever it is that they do. Finally, when you think they are done, you take them out and roll them into a “circle.” Circle being more of a guideline for the blob shape your dough is taking. You estimate it will be ok and flip it into the pie pan. It turns out estimations are not always the best as the crust baring fills one side and is overboard on the other. Also, cracks are forming around the inside. You try and make it fit, but the crust says no. So, you put the apples in and proceed to roll out the top crust. You place that on top and, shockingly, it does not take a perfectly round shape either. So you have to stuff the two together and just forget about being fancy. You are now in survival mode. The goal is to make sure the apples are coverish. You begin to pour the whipping cream over top of the pie and realize it can double as glue! You begin to glue up the holes the best you can.

Finally, you light the oven and put the pie inside. Temperature is pointless due to the fact that you can’t set the temperature on the oven. The options are on and off. So you estimate on time and check the pie from time to time. You have to make sure you have a towel handy since your apartment and IKEA have no pot holders.

Once the pie looks finished..ish, you take it out and debate taking it to your Thanksgiving dinner. You decide, after the two days of work, you will and hope for the best!

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!!

This is dedicated to my mother

Thursday, October 20, 2011

The difference between a compound taxi and a city taxi

So, after being here for over a month, I still do not miss driving. The biggest reason for this would have to be from watching people here drive. As I have said before, there are not "rules" per say, more like suggestions that everyone ignores. The only law everyone follows are the stop lights, and, even then, yellow means, "Floor it!" So, frankly, taking taxi's everywhere is the only way to travel unless you know a man with a car (Chris you need to hurry up and get here!).

As for the price of a taxi, well it varies based on distance and type of cab. With gas prices soaring here at $0.46 per gallon it can get kind of pricey here to travel as I am sure you can imagine. ;-)

Now, here is where the gamble comes in to play. There are two types of taxis in Jeddah. You have compound taxis and city taxis. Compound taxis are, obviously, run through the compound. They are open 24 hours and will take you anywhere you want to go outside the compound as well. They wear a uniform, have a visible taxi certification, speak ok English, and all drive a 2009 white Toyota Camry. This is the way to travel is you are alone and need to get somewhere. However, you have two downfalls. First of all, they cost more, usually between $3-$8 depending on distance. Also, they claim to know where everything is, but, sometimes, they will take you on a crazy 2 hour drive around the ghettos of Jeddah trying to find a translation office and, when you get there and discover it is closed, they take you to an even more ghetto part of town, drop you off at a hole in the wall "office" and leave you to wonder the streets for an hour. This will also occur during prayer time when everything shuts down so there is nowhere to go inside at 12 in the afternoon in 102 degree heat wearing all black. So, all of this to say, there is defiantly a risk involved.

The other option is to walk out of the compound and take a city taxi. This, I learned, is something you never do alone. The upside to this is that it is defiantly cheaper, they know the city very well, and they can get you where you want to go faster. The risk involved with city taxis is as follows. They...
1. Don’t always speak English
2. Love to stare
3. Don’t always have certification visible
4. Don’t always have personal hygiene
5. Don’t understand staring is rude
6. Think they are NASCAR drivers
7. Don’t have a running meter so you have to specify a price before driving
8. Have to wear appropriate attire
9. Love to stare
10. Have some very beat up cars which makes you wonder...

However, these are some of the best adventures of Saudi especially when you do it with friends.

It is fantastic how certain people are placed in your life at certain times. You don't understand why or how, but something greater than us seems to control the movement of pieces in our lives with direct precision. I am seeing this more and more everyday with my across the hall neighbors.

We went to TGI Friday's on Wednesday night to celebrate TGI Wednesday. We have passed it every day to and from school and, after a long week, I wanted something that reminded me of home. In the case of TGI Fridays, I wanted potato skins. We took a compound taxi, (remember what I said about them) and thought it would only take 5-10 mins. 25 minutes later we end up passing TGI Fridays and in front of Hardees trying to explain to our limited English taxi driver to go back. We finally get out and walk to the family section of the restaurant. Segregation in restaurants is a huge thing here. Heaven forbid a woman was to walk into the singles section which, by the way, is where the comfy chairs are. We must go to the wooden chair section AKA family section. I have really come to appreciate how most Americans can at least keep their children at the table during dinner, even if they are not exactly being good. The children here, who are all in the family section, run around like crazy people hitting the glass windows, playing tag through the restaurant while the parents pretend they are not there or the nanny is trying round them up. It makes for a very loud dining experience. I guess since there is no music in any stores or restaurants, the screaming children is about all the background noise they will allow.

It was disheartening when we got our food, which took forever and arrived out of order, and my potato skins where tiny and bland. Oh bacon, how I miss thee. However, we laughed our way through dinner as we talk about what got us here and wonder what our cab ride home would be like.

We ended up taking a city cab that, as usual, tried to rip us off. Thankfully we are learning to barter and have no problem waiting for a new taxi which, thankfully, usually drops the price by half. For the most part, this was one of the few uneventful city taxis. The last one we were in had really bad BO, looked in his rear view mirror at us the whole way, and, when one of the girls in the front seat tried to get out, realized the door handle was broken. Meanwhile, the rest of us got out of the car breathing the fresh humid air of Saudi.

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Everyday is a new adventure...








YAY PICTURES OF MY APT! MORE PICS TO BE COMING!


So, this week has defenitly left wondering how on earth I ended up drinking camel's milk for lunch this afternoon in October. I finally have settled into the school routine..ish. I know all of my kid's names, even if I do mix them up with 4 boys named Omar. I also learned that you cannot teach ABC in second grade by having the student's put themselves into ABC order. Why? Well when more thank half of your boys names start with the letter A, and the rest are H,O, and Y with many name repeating, it is a recipe for disaster. However, I am learning.

I also have learned parent communication, as important as it is, can be the hardest thing to do when there is a language barrier. I had my first parent conference today and I had to have a translator. Somehow, I feel something is lost in translation, but it went well...I think?

The highlight of the week had to attempting to open up a bank account and I say this with the utmost sarcasm. First, I must explain that in order to open an account you must obtain your residency card and a letter of authorization from your employer. Now, Saudi paper work moves as fast as a snail going up a greased pole. So, once you obtain these documents, you must go to the bank to open up your account. I dont leave school until 4pm each day and dont get home until 4:30. In addition, the bank workers have the same work schedule as I do and therfore work until 4pm most days. Luckily, the only time I really have to go inside the bank is to open the account. Deposits and transfers can be done at an ATM or online. However, this still requires the inital visit to the bank. So, I get off early on Monday with another lady I work with and we go to the woman's branch of the bank. We get there, along with a number of other people, and proceed to wait 25 mins to be told that we cannot open up a bank account today because the system was "down." HOWEVER, after explaining to them all we had to go through to get off work early, take a taxi here, and waiting, they agreed to let one person get an account. How their system magically popped up for one other person is beyond me. However, I digress. So, the next day, we go to a different bank branch to open the account. We sit down and everything is going great. HOWEVER, apparently on my residency card, I have no occupation which means I cannot open up an account until I have an occupation. We were told by the banker this happens a lot along with them putting the wrong gender on the card. It does not matter I have a letter from my employer with all the same information on it. So, thankfully, I was able to transfer funds home using a friend's account, but I still lack a bank account. The bank teller felt so bad because I was upset that he brought apple juice. Apparently, apple juice makes all things right with the world. Oh Saudi...

Thankfully that night we had a Canadian Thanksgiving dinner with a lot of the staff from the school which was fun and helped to cheer up. Then, yesterday I went to yet another mall in Saudi. I use to be impressed that I had 3 malls within 20 mins in GA. I think I have 10 within 20 mins here. They all start to look the same after awhile.

Today was our adventure day in Jeddah! The morning started out with a bus trip to starbucks which, I thought, was a good sign for a good day. Then we took our second stop at the red sea fish market. Now, I am personally not a fish fan in the least. However, after today, I can honestly say that hell is going to smell like this fish market. The smell was AWFUL!!! I really and truly wanted to pass out. However, the floor was made of tile, was slick, and was covered in fish juice and water. I chose to wear flip flops on this little endever which I am convicned was almost like a suiced attempt. I was slipping and sliding and the only thing to grab onto if I fell was fish, lobster, or giant shrimp. I felt like a fish morge personally. THankfully I excaped with my life but not without keeping the lovely scent of dead fish on my abaya.

The next stop was a shopping center in old Jeddah where we haggled, browsed, and bought "Italian table clothes." Our final stop was at a camel farm. I apparently bonded well with the camels and will post pictures soon. I also tried fresh camel's milk which, once you get past what you a drinking, you realize it is not half bad. You only live once so live it up! We did not get to ride the camels, but I guess we have to save some excitement for the next 2 years.

PR:
- I am missing friends and family a lot so strength is needed
- Dealing with parents
- Commitment to keeping with His plan for my life

Thursday, October 6, 2011

First FULL week of school


It is amazing how ingrained Monday-Friday being the "work week" is in our brains. Somehow TFIW (Thank goodness it’s Wednesday) and hating Saturday (our Monday) does not compute in my westernized mind. Thankfully, it's not just me. Many times when we expats talk to each other, we will talk in terms of our western work week and have to correct ourselves. It all becomes really confusing and yet, make sense. Part of me wants to e-mail my friends at home and say "Haha its Wednesday and you have 2 more days to work and I am on my weekend!" HOWEVER, I know the retort on Saturday would be "HAHA you have 5 more days till your weekend." These are the goings on in my mind so I apologize if that makes no sense.

Wednesday was teacher appreciation and WOW. It takes the concept to a whole new level here. Teachers get gold plates, clothes, expensive perfume, expensive jewelry, flowers, and more chocolate than you could ever think to eat. I know I had at least 4 kids come around passing out krispy kreme doughnuts (Just an FYI, they had heath bar crunch doughnuts.)I think in our apartment building we will be hyped up on sugar till spring.

I have learned some rather interesting things being an American in Saudi. First of all, the media has truly misrepresented the culture over here. The hospitality and generosity of the families here is not to be believed. Also, I have learned what it means to be different. As I walk through malls or on the street, I felt so awkward when EVERYONE stares and points. Yet, if I saw a Saudi in my hometown, I would probably do the same things. There is a serious change of perspective that is occurring. What I have seen and researched now is what I see every day. It really is eye opening. I am going to go back to the States and wonder why all the women are not wearing abayas.

This upcoming week should be eventful. More shopping, more school, and so many unknowns. Yet I am thinking I will be getting my diving certification which is very exciting. I will also be going on a boat trip on the Red Sea in mid to late November. Still no concrete plans for Hajji and no concrete time for me to post photos but I am working on it. The one photo this week is in honor of my mother and grandmother. Grilled cheese with raspberry "preserves." Yes, this is a taste of home and much better than PB&J.

PR:
-A horrible flu is circulating through Jeddah and has been affecting students and teachers. I have not so far gotten it and am trying to stay healthy
-I have developed good relationships here and will fight to be a light
-I really have been missing home so strength to know that there is a bigger plan for why I am here
-To stay positive despite a lot of negativity going on

Friday, September 30, 2011

How to cook in Saudi Arabia

Well, the weekend is over here in Saudi Arabia (our weekends are Thursday and Friday). A lot of time has been spending trying to catch up with school lessons, grading, assignments and all the many joys of teaching. I do know about 90% of my students by name and face which is a huge deal. I am still working on pronunciation, but progress is good. Today I went to a luncheon with some new friends and saw and talked how awesome our King. It is a blessing to be able to meet so many people with similar interests from all over the world. Long live the King! I am really getting to enjoy some of the local food here. I still am living off of PB&J, but I am venturing out and realizing there is so many good things out there to try! No, I will not try seafood or camel, but the deserts and rice and meat combos are fantastic. I felt so inspired after having lunch today with my new friends; I thought I would cook some black beans and rice. I have yet to find meat I trust to cook myself but, now that our stove works, I am venturing to cook something other than cheese and apples. So, as I got this crazy idea to cook, I thought I might as well cook extra so I could have it for lunch the next few days. Two things about rice in Saudi, you can’t buy it in small bags, there is no instant rice, and there is no brown rice. So I got the smallest bag I could, which was not small, and picked it because it looked the closest to the rice in the states (since I can't read Arabic, most of my food choices are made based upon looks or labeling). 2 things went very wrong with my brilliant cooking plan that should have told me to stop trying to be fancy and just go with grilled cheese or back to PB&J. 1. I did not have a can opener to open the bean can. This should have made me either A- go buy a can opener across the street or B- not use black beans. However, since I am stubborn and have learned in this country that if there is a will there is a way, I found a way as seen in the picture. I would not recommend doing this again and I am going to buy a can opener tomorrow (theoretically) 2. I did not have any way to stir my food besides using metal spoon. Needless to say I did not realize I bought jumbo rice which expanded to 2-3 times the size of our rice in the states. Also, the spoon heated up VERY fast when I tried to stir. So I might have obtained 2nd degree burns with my lack of wooden spoon and pot holder, BUT, in the end, I had dinner of black beans, rice, green pepper, and artificially processed cheddar cheese. (No you cannot get shredded or block of cheddar cheese. The only cheese you can find I can’t pronounce or mozzarella). It was not bad at all, but I now have enough to feed me until next week and perhaps beyond. Besides creating crazy meals, I am still learning the "fun" of Saudi. I am going to be learning to scuba dive while I am here and will hopefully be traveling to Jordan for Hajji. Other than that, shopping is the number 1 past time for most people here. There are countless malls, markets, and shops to choose from. Also, bartering is like a hobby for some women. They will spend 10-20 mins bartering for one abaya! Then you have me, someone who hates conflict and does not speak Arabic trying to barter? I think not. I either don't buy or have someone else barter for me. I am trying to get out there BUT it is very difficult. There is so much still to learn and do and the learning curve is huge. However, thankfully I do have a good community of people here to help and do life with. PR: - Patience with all the chaos and hecticness of the new school year -Favor in my relationship -Ability to get into a normal sleeping pattern -For my rededency card to be processed soon

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Welcome to Second Grade!

There is definitely a transition from teaching grades 4-6 to moving to grade 2. I have never felt so needed in my entire life! The children here are so cute, but they don't really understand the concept of structure. They will walk up and shove paper in your face in front of everyone else and expect you to speak to them. So, we go over everyday our rules about sitting and raising our hand, not shouting out, and not touch each other. This is all very new for them and for me. So, we learn and grow together every day. Tomorrow is Wednesday which is our version of Friday so it is very exciting but feels weird. The transition of work week is not as hard to try and figure out as I thought. Then again, my days are running together so I have not been keeping track. Today I took my boys to the pool so they could learn to swim which was very funny and hectic. Trying to get 24 boys to change, get into the pool, swim, get out, shower, and change back in 30 minutes is pretty much an impossible task. So many complications arise such as clothes getting lost, clothes being soaked, shoes getting lost, not having a new shirt, not having new pants, losing socks etc. I definitely will be waiting a long time before having kids of my own. ;-) I have been able to get on skype and it works very well. If you would like to talk on skype, send me a message. I would love to talk with friends from home! I do not have a chord to connect my camera to this computer so I will not be able to post pictures until later next week. Please continue to keep me in your thoughts. I miss you all!

Sunday, September 25, 2011

I made it!

Well I am here!!! I made it into Saudi Wednesday night here and there has been SOOOO much going on here it is hard to sum it up without writing a full length novel.Today, Sunday, was my first day of school which was super exciting! I am teaching grade 2 boys and they are so super sweet. I have met some wonderful people while being here, 3 of them were my life savers when I arrived. They adopted me and took care of me as I went through my culture shock. Life here is very different from the states but truly, living on the compound is a saving grace. The people here are great and most things you need you can find fairly easily. The weather is like GA summer every single day. However, their is a great breeze from the red sea that makes it more manageable. One thing I have learend quickly is that there is not a lot of logic in the development of roads/communities. For example, I was going to go for a run around the park in the compound. I assumed it was maybe 2 miles in a circular shape. I was mistaken as I kept running and running and through, logically, if I kept following the road it would circle around. I was wrong. 4 miles later I was running through the woods through sewage hoping not to end up off the compound (which I almost did 2-3 times). I finally realized where I was and got home, hot, sweaty, and convinced I was never going to do that again. I figure from now on I can run one way and then turn around and run home. The roads are the same way outside the compound. It is like every little boys dream. No road rules, no lane markers, and no real speed limits. Its a heart attack when you first start driving through it. However, after driving through Liberia, this does not seem all that bad. I am just thankful I dont actually have to drive. We take the bus or Taxi's everywhere we go. Also, the shopping here is amazing! The malls here make the Mall of GA look like a strip mall. I cannot wait to actually go inside and see it. Overall I am doing well, just tired for the most part. THank you all for your support and keep me in your thoughts this week. PR: -Patience as I adjust into the new school year and new grade level -Endurance to get through these very long days that I am not use to you -Peace in my heart and mind that I will know that I am not in control and everything is happening for a reason